Kenyan photographer and the most prominent artist of her generation, Thandiwe Muriu has won over an international audience with her portraits of black women against a backdrop of colorful fabrics. Three years after her first Paris exhibition, her Camo series is the subject of a book published in April and presented at the Venice Biennale (April 20-November 24). Portrait of a dazzling talent.
They look us straight in the eyes, without smiling, and seem to challenge us to look away. Their dark, black skin stands out from the Ankara fabric they are dressed in, which also serves as a backdrop where each figure seems to disappear. The optical illusion is perfect. Invisible and yet unmistakable, the models exude an almost hypnotic power. Entitled Camo, for "camouflage," this series of photographs lives up to its name. Initially struck by the strength of the composition, the eye then focuses on the details. Glasses, hair accessories, jewelry—all are created from transformed everyday objects (brushes, combs, bottle caps, sponges, hair rollers…). For Thandiwe, it’s a way to celebrate the ingenuity of street artisans, whom Kenyans call juakali (“hot sun,” in Swahili), because they work under the blazing sun. Like these eclectic artifacts, each detail pays tribute to African culture, and the entire process is the result of a long creative journey that starts with finding the right piece of Ankara fabric, abundant in local shops. “I look for bold, exciting, and vibrant color combinations. I believe every print has a personality, and I strive to create an outfit that brings the print to life,” explains Thandiwe in an interview with Vogue. Next comes the hairstyle, always inspired by reimagined traditional styles, followed by the proverb that will serve as the photo’s subtitle. All this work on fabrics, hairstyles, accessories, and sayings has been documented by Thandiwe in a book, published on April 16 by Chronicle Chroma. (...)
Stéphanie O’Brien - Forbes Afrique
8 Jul 2024
